My Account Orders list Wishlist Checkout. Syncro rings are are not in this kit. Positractions 4 Different types of differentials, whats the difference? What rear end ratio do I have in my Ford is it posi! Need help finding the right parts for your vehicle? Get a Quick Quote. Aluminum case, black tin cover over 5th gears - 1st-4th synchro rings have typical engagement teeth.
Aluminum case with a black tin cover over 5th gears - 1 st-4th synchro rings have angled engagement teeth. GEO aluminum case and 5th cover - 1st-2nd and 3rd-4th synchro assemblies use wire type springs. Aluminum case and 5th cover - 1st-2nd and 3rd-4th synchro assemblies use wire type springs - Replaced by another shop who couldn't believe I got three years out of the bad job.
At any rate, this doesn't feel like a clutch-related issue. No slippage feeling or other issues when moving through the gears at higher speeds. But maybe they did a bad job too? I have a Camry 6 speed Manual Transmission and every so often when I shift gears I hear a squeal noise in the engine right as I fully let off the clutch and give it gas in the next gear up. It usually does it when shifting to 2, 3, and 4th gear. Any other Manual Camry owner with this issue that might know what it is?
I was just wondering is the climate control self contained so it can be directly swapped for manual HVAC controls? First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past.
My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up. Also regarding the trans fluid. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use.
All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt or amsoil MTF? I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard.
At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road was stopped in gear I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs. I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again.
Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway. For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal.
The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related? My wife have a Camry SE V4 with auto transmission. She went to TJ Max yesterday and the car is stuck in park, we had to tow the car home. Pushing the Park override button does release it and allow me to shift and drive. My brake lights work with the exception that one bulb is dead, has been dead for a long time without causing any issues.
I pulled out ALL the fuses in cabin and engine, all the fuses are in good shape. I tried looking for a Brake fuse but there is none, tripled check the big fuses but none are blown. I also tried looking for the brake solenoid by the brake pedal but, I didn't know which one it was or where it is located.
My wife's V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. The only catch is, it positions the bearing about 10mm closer to the transmission than on the stock MR2 motor.
To solve this, a new snap ring groove needs to be cut in the axle and a 10mm spacer made to shift the bearing over. I did this myself on my 's era Craftsman lathe, but virtually any small machine shop should be able to do it for a reasonable price. This process is covered in much more detail in this thread on the MR2OC forum. Marc from Frankenstein Motorworks now sells a cast aluminum axle carrier that works with the stock MR2 axle without modification. Finally, you need a clutch and flywheel.
The 2GR was never offered by Toyota with a manual transmission, so there is no stock flywheel to use. Luckily, the bolt pattern on the crank shaft is the same as some of Toyota's earlier V6's, such as the 1MZ. I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, part number If you want a stock weight flywheel, I have been told that a stock 1MZ flywheel will work as well. However, the way the 2GR rev's with a lightweight flywheel is a truly wonderful thing, so I would strongly recommend spending the extra couple hundred bucks.
If you look close, you can see my two custom alignment pins installed in preparation for mating the engine and transmission. The pins are simply two M12x1.
These are especially useful when doing this with the motor in the car, but helpful on the floor as well. One minor, not strictly necessary, but definitely nice modification to make while doing the swap is to the dipstick tube. Basically, it is very nearly touching the firewall heat shield in it's stock configuration. This can easily be done after the swap is complete, as the tube comes off easily with a single bolt. Installed, my modified dipstick tube look like this:. You also may need to purchase a new serpentine belt.
It is only a 6 rib, vs the stock 7, but there are few if any 7 rib belts available in that length. Since we are driving only the alternator and water pump the loss of one rib doesn't seem to be an issue. It is fairly well documented in this thread on the forum. If you are looking for a bolt-on exhaust solution, there is a very nice Y-pipe available from DD Performance Research that will connect the Frankenstein Motorworks headers to a Berk Technology muffler section. It's a little on the spendy side, but is an option if you don't have the means to build your own.
But as you have probably guessed by now, I will be building one A production version of my Y-Pipe is now available for purchase. Here is the initial mockup from several angles. Tubing is 2. The merge transitions to 3" to match my Berk Technology muffler. The merge collector is from Cone Engineering. By it's design it's a little tricky to use, but it also allows quite a bit of adjustability in angle and is quite compact, an important feature in this case.
From there, I refined the design a little with the addition to two flex sections, and dimpled the pipes a little where they cross to improve ground clearance. This allowed the merge collector to be angled a little, rather than standing up vertically.
Overall, there isn't a whole lot of room under the motor for the exhaust, so keeping everything as tight as possible is critical. I actually built it so that it touched the oil pan in a couple of places, which I will deal with later.
And then I fully welded the merge collector with it on the welding bench. Here it is back on the motor:. During this process I had temporarily installed the motor into the car at least once to double check clearance and angles on the exhaust. At this point, it needs to go back in to finish connecting the merge collector to the muffler section. For this purpose, I cannibalized the mid-pipe from my Berk exhaust, rather than buying a bunch of new 3" pipe. I also added bungs for the AFR sensors at this point.
Make sure you actually have room for the sensor in the location you chose, or you will end up with an extra hole in your pipe that you have to weld shut oops, you can see my mistake in the picture below.
I didn't take any pictures of the process, but the end result is below. Finally, the last step on my exhaust was sending the headers and Y-pipe off to be ceramic coated. I used Performance Coatings in Washington. The end result looks great, and the price was, I thought, very reasonable. The color I chose is called "satin titanium". Remember I said the exhaust was touching the oil pan? Well, I had a new oil pan I had been working on for my oil cooler setup more on that later , and while it was off the motor I clamped it down in my mill and took some material off of the ribs and one threaded boss to make more room.
Had I not been swapping oil pans, I would have done this on the motor with a grinder, or maybe just designed the exhaust to sit a little lower my production Y-pipe does NOT require this step! For many, this is the most intimidating part of the whole swap. If you are in this category, there are several of companies out there that offer custom swap harnesses.
I have no experience with any of them and cannot comment on their quality. If you chose to go this route, please do your research on the company you choose! If doing your own wiring, do yourself a favor and buy a selection of good quality automotive wire in various wire colors on eBay or somewhere. There are a few areas where you need to extend wires or add new ones, and being able to at least closely match the stock wire colors makes this all much cleaner.
Get some good quality heat-shrink butt splice connectors as well. Bought in bulk they are pretty cheap, but they can be quite expensive at your local hardware store, so plan ahead! The ECU in particular used to be a very tricky thing, since most 2GR equipped vehicles come with immobilizers. Finding an ECU that isn't paired to an immobilizer was expensive and or very difficult, and wiring in the immobilizer and smart-key system increased the swap complexity quite a bit.
All three of those parts also had to come from the same vehicle. Fortunately, Marc at Frankenstein Motorworks has figured out how to hack the factory ECU from at least some vehicles to remove the immobilizer. He also removes all of the check engine light codes associated with the automatic transmission and emissions equipment, raises the rev limit to RPM, and applies a few other small tweaks as well.
Unfortunately for me, he hasn't yet hacked the Rav4 ECUs newer than If you are starting with a wiring harness that matches the ECU, the wiring gets much less involved.
You will need to be intimately familiar with both the 2GR and the MR2 wiring diagrams in order to pull this off! Speaking of wiring harnesses, remember how I said the Rav4 harness was the one to get?
That is because the harness leaves the motor over the transmission, just like the stock MR2 harness. It also has plenty of length to reach both the stock fuse box location, as well as the stock ECU location in the trunk. To the best of my knowledge, all of the other harness options exit the motor on the other side and require wire extensions.
Depending on how you wire it you may also need a new hole in the trunk for the wires. If anyone knows of another harness option that is similar to the Rav4 harness let me know. First step on the wiring is to strip the harness sheathing back to the edge of the motor and start removing wires that won't be used. This includes all of the wires associated with the automatic transmission, the secondary O2 sensors, etc. I used zip ties to keep the wires bundled in their approximate shape. To facilitate the wiring process and to help with re-pinning from a harness to a ECU, I created this pin-out guide for the Rav4 engine harness.
If you are not having to re-pin, the "ECU Pinout" tab will be mostly just for reference, and for determining which wires to remove. The "Chassis Interface" tab is where the bulk of the swap information is found.
Also please note that the answer to the question of if a particular wire is needed may be different for your swap, depending on if you plan to install air conditioning, stock 2GR emissions equipment, secondary O2 sensors, etc. Conveniently, while the connector shells are different, the pins are the same.
This means you can simply de-pin the Rav4 fusebox connectors and insert the pin into the appropriate spot in the connector shell salvaged from an MR2 engine harness. The Rav4 harness has roughly 8" of extra wire length on these wires, which can be bundled away in the harness to avoid excessive cutting and splicing. In addition to wires that need to be re-pinned into the MR2 fuse box connectors, there are four wires that are not present in the Rav4 harness that need to be added to these connectors.
These wires are for the reverse switch 2 wires , coolant temp gauge, and starter relay. Those excess wires we removed will come in handy here! Also, a wire needs to be run from the starter to the starter relay in the trunk to power the relay, same as on the stock MR2 harness. If you intend to reuse your MR2 starter then a suitable spade terminal will need to be added to the starter end of this wire or salvage this wire from an MR2 harness.
Alternately, the starter from a 2GR equipped vehicle is a direct bolt-on to the E transmission, and is both more compact and about 4lb lighter than the MR2 starter. If you go this route, reuse the starter solenoid wire from the 2GR wiring harness with it's connector on the starter end. You will also need a rubber boot to cover the end of main power cable. On the Rav4 they are powered by their own 20amp fuse and relay.
On the MR2 the stock intercooler fan wiring circuit provides a perfect substitute for this. Simply splice the two AFR sensor power wires together and connect them to the appropriate pin in the fuse box. Inside the fuse box the trigger for the fan relay needs to be rewired to the main relay so that it turns the AFR sensors on when the engine is running.
Lastly, the main power wire from the alternator needs to be shortened and a new ring terminal crimped onto the end. You will definitely want to have the motor in the car at this point to make sure you get the length right.
On the MR2, this consists of the EA1 plug between the body harness and the engine harness, and the plug on the ECU where the body harness connects. I chose to take the body harness apart in this area, cut the plugs off, and splice on my small ECU plug pigtail.
One note here: if your car has power steering you will need to provide it with a signal that the engine is running, otherwise it will run all the time. I spliced mine into the fuel pump circuit, since the ECU only energizes that when the engine is on.
The end result looks like this:.
0コメント